Epoxy Information / Ratios
The most common question that we receive is "How much pigment per gallon of epoxy?".
This is a very valid question and unfortunately there is no set answer due to the numerous types of applications and variations.
For example:
Are you looking for an opaque or transparent look? Lighter colors may take more pigment to achieve the color.
This is why we recommend the 2 grams per 8 oz and add as desired.
The short answer is yes. It could become a factor especially in epoxy deep pours.
WATCH THIS QUICK VIDEO TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE (Click Here)
Typical pigments average 10-60um. Be aware that larger micron sized pigments will most likely have a heavier density which will cause the pigment to sink faster in fresh epoxy such as deep pours.
For example, our Icicle or 14k Nugget Gold is 200-700um and will most likely sink in fresh epoxy faster.
To alleviate sinking either let the epoxy settle up a little bit. Or, come back through your project to "stir" it a little more.
Typically the majority of the pigments on the market are in the 10-60um (micron) size. Although the majority of our pigments fall into this category, we have some pigments that go up to 1000um.
An easy rule of thumb to remember, the larger the micron size, the larger the particle.
Why does this matter? The larger the size, most likely you will have more shimmer, metallic, glittery look.
WATCH THIS QUICK VIDEO TO SEE THE COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT SIZE PARTICLES
Whether you are bonding, fairing, applying fabric, or coating a surface, the final result depends on more than the strength of the epoxy. Good adhesion starts with proper surface prep.
For best results, follow these three basic steps:
Surface Preparation: Clean, Dry, Sand
1. Clean
The surface must be free of grease, oil, wax, mold release, dust, and other contaminants. Use lacquer thinner, acetone, or another appropriate solvent to clean the area.
After applying solvent, wipe the surface with paper towels before the solvent has a chance to dry. Always follow proper safety precautions when working with solvents.
2. Dry
All bonding surfaces should be as dry as possible before epoxy is applied. Moisture can interfere with adhesion and curing.
To speed up drying, you can use a hot air gun, hair dryer, or heat lamp. If working in a confined or enclosed space, use fans to keep air moving.
Be aware of condensation, especially when working outdoors or when the temperature of your workspace changes.
3. Sand
Smooth, non-porous surfaces should be sanded with 80-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. This creates texture so the epoxy has something to grip.
Before sanding, remove any flaking, chalking, blistering, or old coating. After sanding, remove all dust from the surface before applying epoxy.
Epoxy performs best in a controlled environment, ideally around 75°F (22°C). When temperatures rise, your working time can become much shorter. An increase of 15°F–20°F (10°C) can cut the working and application time significantly, so it’s important to plan ahead when working in warm conditions.
1. Keep materials cool
Store your resin and hardener out of direct sun and keep them as cool as possible before use. Work in the shade whenever you can, and try to pour during the cooler parts of the day.
2. Test with a small batch first
Mixing a small test batch can help you understand how much working time, or pot life, you’ll have in your current temperature and conditions.
3. Watch the surface temperature
The temperature of the surface you are pouring onto matters too. A warm tabletop, mold, or project surface can heat the epoxy faster and shorten your working time.
4. Keep yourself cool
Hot weather can affect you just as much as the epoxy. Stay hydrated, take breaks as needed, and avoid rushing when working in summer heat.
5. Choose the right system for the conditions
When working in sunlight or warmer spaces, mix your resin in plastic containers instead of metal. Plastic helps keep the material cooler, while metal can hold and transfer heat more quickly.
Cold temperatures can change the way epoxy mixes, flows, levels, and cures. Here are the most common issues to watch for:
Slower Cure Time
Cold conditions can slow down the curing process. This may give you more working time, but it also means your project may take longer to fully cure and be ready for use.
Thicker Product Viscosity
When epoxy is cold, it becomes thicker and does not flow as easily. You may notice it feels harder to pour, spread, or mix. If the epoxy or project surface is too cold, self-leveling may be affected and surface issues like fisheyes or uneven spots can appear.
Humidity & Moisture Issues
Cooler weather can also bring higher humidity or condensation. Moisture settling on uncured epoxy may lead to blushing, surface defects, cloudiness, or reduced gloss.
Before You Use It
Do not worry if your epoxy traveled through cold conditions during shipping. Before mixing, allow the resin and hardener to acclimate back to the recommended working temperature, around 75°F. This helps restore proper flow, mixing consistency, and curing performance.
Once the surface has been sealed, wait 4–6 hours before applying the flood coat. Try not to go beyond 10 hours, as the flood coat may not bond as smoothly into the seal coat.
Multiple flood coats can be applied if additional depth is needed. Each flood coat naturally self-levels at approximately 1/8" thick. If you want a finish thicker than 1/8", build it up with multiple layers instead of one heavy pour.
Wait at least 4–10 hours between flood coats. During this window, the epoxy should still have some tack, which helps the next layer bond properly.
If more than 10 hours have passed, lightly scuff the surface with 222–300 grit sandpaper, then wipe it clean with denatured alcohol or acetone before adding the next coat. You only need a light scuff, just enough to give the next flood coat a surface to grip.
To apply the flood coat, start at one end of the project and pour the epoxy along the full length of the surface in a zigzag pattern. Once poured, set the mixing container aside. Do not scrape leftover material from the bucket onto your project.
Because a flood coat uses roughly three times more material than a seal coat, the epoxy will begin to flow and spread quickly. Use a rubber squeegee or foam brush only as needed to guide the material around the surface. The less you have to brush or manipulate it, the better the finish will usually look.
If your epoxy cures with a cloudy or hazy finish, you may be able to improve the surface by applying a clear gloss finish or sealer. Place the project inside a cardboard box or protected spray area, and work in a well-ventilated space. For best results, make sure humidity is below 75% before applying the clear finish.
Another option is to apply a thin seal coat or flood coat over the surface. Use a grey foam brush to brush on a fresh layer evenly, then allow it to cure for at least 24 hours. This can help restore a clearer, glass-like finish to the surface.
Yes, as long as the material is still liquid and can be mixed, it is typically still usable. If the resin or hardener has not cured or hardened in the container, it can still be used for projects.
During mixing, the discoloration is usually spread out and becomes less noticeable. If you are adding pigments, tints, mica powders, or dyes, any yellowing is usually hidden once color is added.
All epoxy products can yellow over time. This is normal. Even if Part A or Part B has developed some yellowing, the epoxy should still cure and perform as expected when measured, mixed, and applied properly.
First, it helps to understand why this can happen.
Reason 1: Under-mixing
Proper mixing is one of the most important parts of working with epoxy. Mix by hand using a clean stir stick, and remember that larger batches need more time to fully combine.
As a guide, 1 gallon of mixed epoxy takes approximately 4–5 minutes of mixing. 2 gallons of mixed epoxy takes approximately 6–7 minutes of mixing. Using a timer is recommended.
While mixing, scrape the sides and bottom of the container several times. Press the stir stick down into the mixture as you stir to help avoid unmixed areas. If the epoxy is not fully blended, you may end up with some spots that cure hard while other areas remain sticky or tacky.
Reason 2: Inaccurate measuring
Sticky epoxy can also happen when the resin and hardener are not measured correctly. For a 1:1 epoxy system, the resin and hardener must be measured in a strict 1-to-1 ratio by volume.
Do not guess, eyeball, or pour directly from the original containers without measuring. Use a graduated mixing container so both parts are measured as accurately as possible.
Don’t worry, this can usually be fixed
Epoxy that stays sticky after the normal cure time will usually remain that way unless the surface is repaired. Here’s how to fix it.
1. Remove the wet epoxy
Start by scraping away all wet or uncured epoxy from the surface.
Your project or artwork underneath should usually be okay, but all liquid epoxy needs to be removed before adding a fresh coat. If sticky epoxy is left behind, it can leak or move underneath the new layer.
After scraping, wipe the surface with denatured alcohol.
2. Sand the project
Sand the entire surface, including any cured patches or repaired areas. Finish with 222–230 fine grit sandpaper.
After sanding, remove all dust from the surface using denatured alcohol or acetone. The goal is to create a clean, lightly scuffed surface that the new epoxy layer can bond to.
It may look rough or cloudy at this stage, but that is normal. Once the next coat is poured, the surface should clear back up.
3. Pour a fresh flood coat
Make sure the first layer is 100% cured before pouring again.
Once the surface is scraped, sanded, and cleaned, pour a fresh 1/8" flood coat over the project. Measure carefully, mix thoroughly, and avoid scraping unmixed material from the sides or bottom of the mixing container onto your project.
For best results, we recommend using Eye Candy Epoxy within 6 months of purchase.
Store both the resin and hardener at room temperature in their original containers. Keep the lids tightly closed when not in use to help prevent contamination, moisture exposure, or debris from getting into the product.
When stored properly, resin and hardener should remain usable for up to 6 months after opening. If the product has been sitting for a while, mix a small test batch first to confirm it cures properly before using it on a full project.
Hardeners may darken over time, but the color change does not always affect the physical performance of the epoxy. For clear finishes, be aware that using older hardener and newer hardener on the same project may create a slight color difference.
Embedding Pictures
Photos, articles, maps, and similar paper items can be embedded in Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy or other epoxy projects. Some thin papers, such as newsprint, magazine pages, or lightweight printed materials, should be sealed before epoxy is applied.
Seal thin paper with white glue or a similar clear-drying sealer to help prevent the epoxy from soaking into the paper and creating a translucent or darkened look. Another option is to laminate the paper in plastic so the epoxy does not come into direct contact with it.
Most photo-quality paper usually does not need extra sealing.
Once your paper items are sealed and ready, place them onto your project surface. After applying your seal coat of epoxy, wait about 30 minutes before positioning the objects. Additional flood coats can then be poured over the surface to fully cover and embed them.
Embedding Solid Objects
Solid items such as wood, rocks, shells, bottle caps, coins, and similar objects can also be embedded in epoxy.
Any porous object should be sealed first. You can seal it with epoxy or another compatible sealer, such as shellac, lacquer, or polyurethane. If porous items are not properly sealed, they may release small air bubbles during the flood coat, which can collect around the object.
Objects can be placed before the first seal coat is applied, or they can be set into a seal coat that has been allowed to sit for about 30 minutes.
Lightweight items, such as bottle caps, should be glued down before pouring to help prevent them from floating or shifting.
Embedding Fragile Objects
Fragile items may need extra care before being embedded. A sprayable clear coat, such as aerosol polyurethane or lacquer, can be a good way to seal delicate objects without handling them too much.
Always follow the directions for the sealer you are using, and make sure the object is fully cured and dry before it comes into contact with epoxy.
Unused and unmixed epoxy resin and hardener are not considered waste and can be saved for future projects. Keep both parts tightly sealed in their original containers and store them at room temperature. For best results, use within six months.
Reusable tools should be cleaned before the epoxy cures, following the recommended cleanup instructions. Disposable tools, cups, stir sticks, and other materials can be thrown away once the epoxy has fully cured.
Fully cured epoxy resin is generally considered non-hazardous waste in most municipalities, but disposal rules can vary by location. Always check your local waste management guidelines before disposing of cured or leftover material.
Table Top Epoxy Resin
Before You Begin
Please read all instructions before working with Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy.
This product should not be used with, or applied over, oil-based products. It is also not intended for outdoor use.
All epoxy systems can have natural color or tint variation. This may become more noticeable depending on the surface color underneath. White surfaces are especially likely to show subtle hue changes in epoxy.
Coverage
Use the Eye Candy epoxy calculator (click here) to estimate how much resin you will need for your project based on the square footage of the surface you are coating.
Working Conditions & Temperature
For best results, keep the product and workspace between 75°F–85°F. Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy should be stored, mixed, applied, and cured for 72 hours at 75°F–85°F to achieve the intended finish and cure.
If the resin or hardener has been exposed to cold temperatures, allow the containers to warm back up before use. A warm water bath can help bring the jugs back to a workable temperature.
A controlled indoor workspace is important when working with epoxy. Temperature and humidity can affect flow, working time, bubble release, and proper curing.
Safety
Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy contains no Volatile Organic Compounds, also known as VOCs, but proper safety practices should still be followed.
Work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective gloves and eyewear while mixing and applying epoxy. Some users may be more sensitive to epoxy than others and may choose to wear a ventilator.
If epoxy contacts skin, wash with soap and warm water. If epoxy gets into the eyes, do not rub. Flush repeatedly with water for 15 minutes. If irritation continues, seek medical attention immediately.
Contact Eye Candy for the product Safety Data Sheet when needed.
Surface Preparation
Make sure your project surface is clean, dry, level, and free of dust, dirt, oil, and grease. Denatured alcohol or acetone may be used with a lint-free rag to clean the surface before pouring.
Because Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy is self-leveling, your project must be level before application. Work in a clean, dry space that is free of dust and insects, since airborne dust or debris can settle into the epoxy while it cures.
Measuring
Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy must be measured accurately. Mix 1 part Resin to 1 part Hardener by liquid volume, not by weight. Do not adjust or alter the 1:1 ratio.
Do not mix more than 1 gallon combined at one time.
Mixing
Pour the hardener first, then the resin, into a clean mixing container that has about 30% more capacity than the total amount you are mixing.
Mixing should fully combine both parts into a consistent, uniform blend. Scrape the sides and bottom of the container several times while mixing to avoid unmixed material.
Use a flat-bottom stir stick or silicone spatula. Stir by hand using a steady folding and scraping motion. Do not beat, whip, or use a drill to mix the epoxy.
Mixing time depends on batch size. For tabletop epoxy batches between 64–128 ounces, mix for 5–8 minutes. Use a timer if needed.
Do not mix longer than 8–10 minutes. Overmixing can cause the epoxy to cure too quickly in the container. It may also become hot and possibly smoke. Use a fresh, clean container for every new batch.
Pro Tip
If you are new to epoxy, begin with smaller batches until you are comfortable with the process.
Epoxy is time-sensitive once resin and hardener are combined. The curing process begins immediately when the two parts are mixed at the proper ratio. This process creates heat, which is called an exothermic reaction.
Avoid mixing more than 1 gallon combined at a time. When mixed and applied correctly, premature curing can be reduced.
Causes of Premature Curing
Premature curing can happen when:
Epoxy is mixed too aggressively
Epoxy is whipped instead of stirred by hand
The mixture is stirred for too long
Mixed epoxy sits too long in the container
The pour is too deep
The flood coat exceeds the intended 1/8" thickness or maximum 1/4" depth
Once resin and hardener are combined, heat begins building. Spreading the epoxy over a surface helps the reaction happen properly. When mixed epoxy stays concentrated in a cup or bucket, heat builds faster and can cause rapid curing, excessive heat, or smoke. This can also happen when epoxy is poured too deep.
Application & Curing
Seal Coat
A seal coat is a small amount of epoxy brushed onto the surface in a very thin layer. It is used to seal porous surfaces such as hardwood, barn wood, knotty wood, and similar materials.
The seal coat helps reduce air release from the surface, which can help minimize bubbles in the flood coat. Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy can be used for both seal coats and flood coats.
Seal Coat Notes
Do not apply this product over oil-based coatings or unknown coatings.
Aged or kiln-dried porous woods may require multiple seal coats. Some surfaces may need up to 3 seal coats.
A seal coat may not be needed on non-porous surfaces.
Because epoxy can cure quickly in the container, apply seal coats quickly or mix smaller batches as you work. Porous wood may require multiple thin seal coats.
Bubble Removal During Seal Coat
Once the surface is covered with a seal coat, bubbles can be removed using a small propane torch or heat gun.
Hold the flame or heat source approximately 6–10 inches away from the tabletop. Move quickly across the surface in a sweeping motion. The heat helps release trapped air bubbles.
Check the surface occasionally for bubbles for up to 1 hour, using light heat as needed.
Allow 3–4 hours between seal coats.
Once the full surface is sealed, wait 6–8 hours before applying the flood coat. If the seal coat has fully cured, lightly sand with 320-grit sandpaper and wipe clean with denatured alcohol or acetone before applying the next coat.
Flood Coat
To apply the flood coat, begin at one end of the project and pour the epoxy along the length of the surface in a zigzag pattern.
After pouring, set the mixing container aside. Do not scrape leftover epoxy from the mixing bucket onto your project.
The flood coat uses more material than the seal coat, so it will begin flowing across the surface on its own. A foam brush may be used to guide epoxy around the edges, but a proper flood coat should require minimal spreading.
Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy is designed for 1/8" thick pours, though some projects may be poured up to 1/4" thick at a time.
After 4 hours, another layer may be poured directly over the previous layer. If more than 10 hours have passed, lightly sand the surface with 200–300 grit sandpaper and wipe clean with denatured alcohol or acetone before pouring the next layer.
Edges & Drips
The flood coat may be allowed to flow over the edges to coat the sides. Edge coatings will usually be thinner than the top surface, so use a brush as needed to help even them out.
Drips may form underneath the edge or bar rail. Once cured, these can be sanded off. If you catch them while the epoxy is still soft, they may also be carefully trimmed or scraped away.
Bubble Removal During Flood Coat
After the flood coat is applied, bubbles can be released using a small propane torch or heat gun.
Hold the heat source approximately 6–10 inches from the surface and move quickly in a sweeping motion. Do not hold heat in one spot.
Check for bubbles occasionally for up to 1 hour, applying light heat only as needed.
Curing
After the final coat is applied, keep the surface in a clean, dust-free area. Maintain a minimum temperature of 75°F–80°F for 72 hours while the epoxy cures.
Heat Resistance
Once fully cured, Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy has a heat resistance of 120°F / 57°C.
Use coasters, placemats, or other protective barriers on tabletop surfaces to help reduce heat transfer and protect the finish.
Many of our customers create amazing river tables! Keep in mind the maximum depth to pour is approximately 1/8”- 1/4″ thick. If depths thicker than 1/8”- 1/4″ are desired, multiple coats are necessary. You must wait at least 4–10 hours between coats to allow sufficient curing and cooling. Attempting to pour thicker can cause the epoxy to generate excessive heat which in turn will cause more air bubbles, possibly cracking and shrinkage. You will be able to pour up to unlimited depths if you follow the instructions. If you want to pour more than 1/4" at a time we recommend using our Deep Pour Epoxy
Our table top was initially designed for bar tops and flat surfaces. However, many of our customers have thought outside the box and have come up with amazing alternative application techniques one of them being tumblers.
Here are some Tumbler Tips submitted by our customers:
1. Make sure the room is kept warm throughout the entire application process and at least 2–3 hours after while on the spinner (I try to keep it around 77°F/78°F).
2. Use a clean cup every time (I find even using a silicone bowl that hasn’t been 100% cleaned and dried can cause issues).
3. Equal amounts of A resin and B hardener is a must and slow stirs to prevent air bubbles.
4. I feel a “cuptissourie” is also a must to keep the cup turning while it cures.
5. I will do a quick run over the cup with a handheld heat gun about 20 minutes after application (about 5–8 inches away) if I notice a lot of bubbles. Too much heat and it can get super runny and then not set properly (fisheyes & dimples)
Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy Resin is meant to be measured using a 1:1 ratio by volume. Sides A and B differ in weight so it would not be accurate to weigh the sides before mixing. If you use this method of measurement, you are more likely to have curing problems or sticky/tacky epoxy.
EPOXY RESIN THROUGH THICK & THIN
Our epoxy resin is one of the thickest on the market! Depending on your project you may be wondering if there are ways to thicken or thin it out.
THICKENING EPOXY RESIN
Our epoxy is the perfect viscosity when pouring on bar/counter and table tops so that it does not run off the sides. Here is how thick it is. Our Epoxy has a viscosity of 10,000 CPS (centipoise). For example, peanut butter has a CPS of 25,000, so that gives you an idea of how thick it is!
We don’t recommend thickening epoxy for a few reasons.
Thickening epoxy can create problems when using the epoxy such as:
1. Air pockets in the finish
2. Streaks
3. Self-leveling problems
NOTE: Although there are other articles on the web that instruct how to thicken epoxy, we do NOT recommend it with our brand.
THINNING EPOXY RESIN
Understandably, especially for artists, a thinner epoxy is sometimes more desirable in order to manipulate on canvas, mix with mediums, or pour into silicone molds. Keep in mind that if our Tabletop Epoxy were too thin or watery, you would not get consistent results. If done incorrectly, it can be harmful to the strength characteristics of the product and the final cure. For artisans looking for a bit thinner epoxy resin for intricate artwork, we suggest our UV-Art Resin.
Here are a few ways on how you can successfully thin our Table Top Epoxy Resin:
Denatured Alcohol
Recommended over acetone and other solvents. Denatured alcohol allows you to add more solvents to the batch without affecting as much of the physical properties of the epoxy. Use a maximum of 20% added to the epoxy resin. Example: 32 ounces of epoxy to 6.4 ounces of denatured alcohol.
Acetone or Paint Thinner
When using acetone or paint thinner just add a maximum of 10% to the epoxy resin. Example: 32 ounces of epoxy to mix with 3.2 ounces of acetone or paint thinner.
Thinning with Solvents
This is the easiest and most used method for thinning epoxy. But, also the most harmful. Using a solvent can significantly affect the way your epoxy resin performs and also increase the total cure time of the epoxy. Tread lightly when using a solvent with your epoxy.
Eye Candy provides an entire line of epoxy resins designed to meet the needs of a wide variety of artisan, crafter, marine, and DIY project requirements. So let your inner Epoxy Pro shine through in whatever creation you undertake!
The short answer is, yes. When Our Table Top Epoxy has been measured, mixed, and cured properly it becomes safe, per FDA code, 21CFR175.300 which states “Resinous and polymeric coatings may be safely used as the food-contact surface of articles intended for use in producing, manufacturing, packing, processing, preparing, treating, packaging, transporting, or holding food” and can be used as a “functional barrier between the food and the substrate” and “intended for repeated food-contact use”.
Keep in mind that the epoxy surface is not antimicrobial, and will still have to be disinfected after uses that include serving or eating food.
Like all epoxy that you use it will have some odor. The odors will be different in each brand and can range from a light to a stronger smell. Often with an odor, it brings up the question of whether or not breathing in the epoxy resin can be a health hazard. Some customers feel as if the smell is non-existent, while it might bother some. How you interpret the smell has to do with each person’s sensitivities. It is important to know that the smell is NOT a fume or a VOC (volatile organic compound), and Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy Resin poses no risk to your health. As with any chemical, we still want to encourage our users to work in a well-ventilated area (a large room with moving air works, as opposed to working in a small closet) and to protect your skin from the epoxy resin by wearing gloves.
Our product has a UV-resistant additive, which makes it ideal for indoor tables and art. The UV inhibitor will help to resist the yellowing of your cured epoxy project.
All epoxy yellows over time with exposure to UV light. We added a UV inhibitor to our product, but it’s still intended for indoor use. Still, we do have customers who use it outdoors regardless. Many of them report top coating with water-based outdoor polyurethane, which should significantly slow the UV degradation process.
In addition to UV-degradation issues, outdoor use in direct sun can also cause temperature issues. High temperatures above recommended mixing temperatures can cause an accelerated exothermic reaction. High temperatures after the product have been cured can also cause the epoxy to soften. These reasons are why we do not recommend the product for outdoor use. Please note darker surfaces that are not in direct sunlight may not experience noticeable yellowing or high temperatures that can cause softening.
Scratches
Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy is durable, but can still be scratched by sharp objects, rough edges, or heavy use. Light surface marks are often subtle because of the glossy, clear nature of epoxy, but it should still be treated with care.
When using the surface for food prep, always use a cutting board, just like you would with any countertop. For the best long-term finish, we recommend using coasters, placemats, and protective barriers whenever possible.
Pro Tip
For projects that will be handled or used regularly, such as tumblers, coasters, serving trays, tabletops, counters, or similar items, allow the epoxy to cure for at least 3 days before use.
Your project may feel hard to the touch after about 12 hours, but it is important to wait the full 72 hours before putting it into regular use. Epoxy continues to harden over the next few months, so be gentle with newly finished surfaces during that time.
Heat Resistance
Epoxy should not be treated like granite, tile, or other high-heat surfaces. After the epoxy has fully cured over a couple of months, peak heat resistance is approximately 135°F.
Always use coasters, placemats, trivets, or heat-safe barriers to protect the surface. Hot plates, mugs, or cups may leave slight impressions if placed directly on the epoxy.
Never place a hot pan, skillet, baking dish, or anything directly from the stove or oven onto the epoxy surface.
Use caution with items that contain red dye or other strong colorants, as some dyes may stain the epoxy.
Deep Pour Epoxy Resin
Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Full Instructional Guide
Advisory Notes
We strongly recommend reading all instructions before working with Eye Candy Deep Pour Epoxy Resin.
This product is not intended to be used with or applied over oil-based products.
This product is not intended to be poured in layers less than 1".
This product is not intended for permanent outdoor use or direct UV exposure. It does contain UV inhibitors to help resist yellowing, but all epoxy products will eventually begin to yellow over time. This can include the base resin, curing agent, and the finished project.
All epoxy systems may have natural color or tint variations. These variations can become more noticeable depending on the color of the surface underneath. White surfaces are typically the most likely to show subtle epoxy hue changes.
Damming
Because Eye Candy Deep Pour is a very thin, low-viscosity material, your mold, frame, or dam must be completely watertight. Any cracks, gaps, crevices, or holes should be sealed before pouring to help prevent leaks and product loss.
Exothermic Reaction
Once the resin and curing agent are combined, the curing process begins. This process creates heat, known as an exothermic reaction.
When epoxy is poured out across a surface or into a properly prepared project area, it can cure as intended. When mixed epoxy is left concentrated in a container, the reaction becomes more intense and can happen much faster. This can cause excessive heat and possible smoking. The same issue can occur if deep pour epoxy is poured beyond the recommended depth.
Seal Coat, If Needed
A thin seal coat may be needed when working with porous surfaces or objects. Some materials can release air or moisture into the epoxy, which may affect the final finish. For porous materials, we suggest using a thin coat of Eye Candy Table Top Epoxy as a seal coat before using Deep Pour.
Step 1: Measure
Measure 2 parts Resin, Part A, to 1 part Curing Agent, Part B, by liquid volume.
Pour the curing agent first, then add the base resin into a clean, smooth-sided container large enough to hold the full amount while leaving room for mixing. Graduated mixing containers are recommended to help measure Part A and Part B accurately.
Any change to the 2:1 mix ratio may cause curing issues.
Step 2: Mix
Mix thoroughly for at least 5 full minutes. Scrape the sides, corners, and bottom of the container as you mix to help fully combine both parts.
Avoid whipping excess air into the mixture. Hand mixing with a stir stick or silicone spatula is recommended. If you choose to use a power mixer, keep it at “hand speed.”
Do not mix more than 3 gallons at one time. If mixing multiple batches, use a clean, dry container for each batch. Reusing the same container may lead to curing issues.
Step 3: Pour
Pour the mixed resin into your mold, frame, or project area.
Do not scrape the last remaining resin from the container onto your project. Unmixed epoxy from the sides or bottom of the container may contaminate the pour and cause curing problems.
For large-volume projects, multiple thinner pours may be needed.
Step 4: Remove Bubbles
To remove bubbles that rise to the surface, use a heat gun or torch in a gentle sweeping motion.
Hold the heat source approximately 6"–10" away from the surface and move continuously until the bubbles release. Avoid heating one area for too long, as this may distort or damage the finish.
Step 5: Cure
Cure times can vary depending on project size, mass, and temperature.
Gel time is typically 18–24 hours, and cure time may range from 36–72 hours. Full cure and maximum hardness may take up to 7 days.
Do not place items on the project or put it into use during this time.
Step 6: Second Pour, Optional
If a second pour is needed, the first pour should be firm but still tacky to the touch, usually around 48 hours.
If the first layer has cured beyond the tacky stage, lightly sand the surface before recoating to help with adhesion. We suggest scuffing with 320-grit sandpaper, then cleaning thoroughly with 99% isopropyl alcohol to remove dust and debris.
Working Conditions & Temperature
The ideal working temperature for Eye Candy Deep Pour is 65°F–75°F.
The product should be stored, mixed, applied, and cured for 24–36 hours at 65°F–75°F, with deep pours requiring 48 hours or more for full cure depending on the project. Proper temperature control is required to achieve the desired results.
If the product has been exposed to cold temperatures, allow it to acclimate before use. Placing the jugs in a warm water bath can help bring the material back to a workable temperature.
A climate-controlled workspace is important when working with epoxy. Temperature and humidity affect working time, flow, bubble release, and proper curing.
Safety
This product has no Volatile Organic Compounds, also known as VOCs, but safe handling practices should still be followed.
Work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective eyewear and gloves. Some users may be more sensitive to epoxy and may choose to wear a ventilator.
If epoxy contacts skin, wash with soap and warm water. If epoxy gets into the eyes, do not rub. Flush repeatedly with water for 15 minutes. If irritation continues, seek medical attention immediately.
Contact Eye Candy for the Safety Data Sheet when needed.
Surface Preparation
Your work surface should be clean, dry, level, and free of dirt, dust, oil, and grease.
Denatured alcohol or acetone may be used with a lint-free rag to clean the surface before pouring. Make sure your surface is level so the epoxy can self-level properly.
Work in a clean, dry area that is free of dust and insects. Dust or debris settling into the epoxy during cure can create imperfections in the surface.
Application & Curing Tips
Edges & Drips
Casting resin may be allowed to flow over the sides of a project, such as when making a river table. This can create a coating along the vertical edges.
The coating on vertical edges will not be as thick as the top surface, so a brush may be used to help even it out.
Drips may form underneath the edge or bar rail. Once cured, these can be sanded off. If caught while the epoxy is still soft, they may be carefully trimmed or scraped away.
Air Bubbles
Once the surface is covered with epoxy, bubbles can be released using a small propane torch or heat gun.
Hold the flame or heat source approximately 6"–10" away from the surface and sweep quickly across the project using a waving motion. The heat helps release trapped air bubbles.
It is best to check the surface occasionally for bubbles for up to 1 hour, using a torch or heat gun as needed.
Curing
Cure time can vary by project depending on mass and temperature. Gel time is typically 18–24 hours, and cure time may range from 36–72 hours.
Full cure and maximum hardness may take up to 7 days. Do not use the project or place items on it during this time.
Heat Resistance
Once fully cured, heat resistance is approximately 120°F.
Use coasters, placemats, or other protective barriers to help protect tabletop surfaces and reduce heat transfer.
Yes!
Eye Candy Deep Pour was designed to be approachable for beginners while still meeting the needs of experienced makers and professional artisans. Its lower-viscosity formula makes it easier to pour, helps it flow into detailed spaces, and provides a longer working time for projects like river tables, deep molds, and encasing keepsakes or memorabilia.
If you need help along the way, our customer service team is here to walk you through the application process step by step.
We recommend pouring Deep Pour Epoxy Resin in up to two-inch thick layers at a time—pouring in one-third increments—using a torch between pours to remove any air bubbles to ensure crystal-clear results. Additional layers should be added before the prior layer cures fully (at the “firm gel” stage) to allow a bond between the layers.
Casting resins are designed to cure more slowly than standard coating epoxies. Typical cure time is in the 36–48 hour range, while coating/tabletop epoxies often cure in 12–24 hours.
A standard coating epoxy may begin to gel in about 20 minutes, while a casting resin can take up to 18 hours to fully gel. Because casting resins are made for thicker pours, their lower viscosity and slower cure help manage heat buildup during deeper applications.
Important Notes:
Coating epoxies should not be left sitting in a mixing container for more than 5–10 minutes, as they can build excessive heat. Pouring a coating epoxy too thick can damage a project, since the epoxy may overheat, crack, or distort during the cure process.
All of Eye Candy’s Epoxies are VOC-Free. A VOC (Volatile Organic Chemical) is a solvent that gets released into the air as the epoxy cures. NOTE: It is important to use an epoxy that is free of these solvents as some epoxies contain cheap fillers or diluents, which are included to make the product cheaper, thereby emitting VOC’s into the air or in water.
Layering Eye Candy Deep Pour Epoxy Resin can be done in two ways. You can add the next layer while the previous pour is still in its gel-like, partially cured stage, or you can wait until the first layer has fully cured.
If the previous layer has fully cured, lightly sand the surface before pouring the next layer. This helps create a better bonding surface so the fresh resin can properly adhere.
During cure, the catalyzed resin moves through several thermosetting stages. It begins as a liquid, changes to a soft gel in about 15–20 minutes, then reaches a firm gel stage in about 20–30 minutes, before becoming click-hard, or cured, within approximately 1–24 hours.
If an epoxy layer is poured too thick, it can affect how the resin cures and may impact the final result both visually and structurally. Layers that exceed the recommended pour depth can also generate too much heat and may begin to smoke, creating a potential safety hazard.
For best results, always follow the recommended mixing ratio, pour depth, working temperature, and curing guidelines for the specific epoxy system you are using.
The viscosity of the product is very thin.
It is important that you have a watertight frame. Any cracks/ crevices/holes need to be sealed prior to pouring to prevent leaking, and ultimately losing product.
Fast Cure Epoxy Resin
Fast Cure Resin is designed for hobbyists, artisans, makers, and small business owners who want faster project turnaround without sacrificing clarity, quality, or a professional finish.
Whether you are creating small castings, coatings, crafts, jewelry, molds, or production-style pieces, fast cure systems help keep your workflow moving. They are ideal when you need to complete multiple projects, reduce wait time between steps, or meet tighter deadlines.
Fast Cure Resin offers a balance of speed and performance, giving makers a quicker path from pour to finished piece while still delivering the clean, glossy results expected from Eye Candy epoxy systems.
Ultra-Fast Cure Time
Handle and demold projects in as little as ~1 hour depending on conditions.
Crystal Clear Finish
Produces a clean, high-gloss surface that enhances color, detail, and depth.
Self-Leveling Formula
Flows smoothly across surfaces to create even, professional finishes.
Production-Ready Performance
Ideal for makers producing multiple pieces or working on tight timelines.
Precision & Efficiency
Short working time allows for quick, repeatable results in controlled applications.
Faster Turnaround
Designed to significantly reduce cure time, allowing for faster demolding and quicker project completion.
Crystal Clear Finish
Cures to a clean, glass-like surface that enhances wood grain, pigments, and embedded materials.
Low Viscosity Flow
Thin consistency allows epoxy to flow easily into molds and tight spaces while helping bubbles rise.
Controlled Cure Profile
Engineered for smaller deep pours where control and consistency are critical.
Excellent Detail Capture
Perfect for intricate molds, embeds, and detailed casting work.
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